São Miguel: The Basics

The Azores is the name of an archipelago made up of nine main volcanic islands located approximately 1,815 km from the Portuguese mainland (2,400 miles from the United States). All the islands are a rich site of volcanic geodiversity consisting of volcanoes, craters, lakes, lava fields, hot springs, lava deltas and deposits of marine fossils. Collectively, the Azores is a designated UNESCO Global Geopark.  

São Miguel is the largest of the nine islands and is the most volcanically active. It serves as the main entry point to all the other Azores islands. São Miguel is home to Ponte Delgado, the capital city of the Azores and is also where the main airport, Ponta Delgada Airport, is located.

Like mainland Portugal, many locals speak English but in more remote parts of the island you may have difficulty communicating in languages other than Portuguese. This held true for us mostly in the restaurants we dined at in smaller villages away from village or city centers.

There is something in the air on São Miguel Island. Or, more accurately, in the land. This is an island of thick greenery, sunny beaches and mineral rich hot springs that bubble up throughout the island. Blanketed with rolling pastures and diverse fauna from all over the world it is also an excellent place to hike. You’ll find a smattering of small villages, most being bohemian beach towns that unfurl toward the ocean, situated on rocky bluffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

Hiking: Miraduro da Boca do Inferno

With an average of 300 sunshine filled days each calendar year, Portugal is an excellent place to head outdoors and get active. This is even more true on the Azores. São Miguel island, with its surprising variety of dramatic scenery, is a true hiker’s paradise.

The most iconic hike on São Miguel leads to the Miraduro da Boca do Inferno or the Boca do Inferno viewpoint. The view is jaw-droppingly stunning and the most famous image of the Azores. Tears pricked the corners of our eyes when we arrived at this vista – it is seriously that magnificent of a sight.

What to Expect

At this 360-degree viewpoint you will overlook the Lagoa do Canario which is officially considered as one of the “7 Wonders of Portugal”. You’ll also see blue-green lagoons below nestled amid a rolling patchwork of green. Take in views of Sete Cidades village and if you’re lucky you’ll also be able to see the Atlantic Ocean past the crater’s ridge. Be prepared for temperatures to be about 10 degrees cooler on this overlook. We recommend you dress in layers when you visit with a sweatshirt, hat, and lightweight jacket especially if you hike this trail during the cooler months (Nov – Feb).

Also, while this is an easy viewpoint to access, it can be tricky to enjoy the viewpoint to the fullest; mostly because it is almost always cloud-covered. If you are fortunate to arrive at the viewpoint when there is no cloud-cover be prepared for it to roll in quickly – perhaps as soon as 20 minutes after you arrive. Luckily, before you venture to this viewpoint there is a useful, free webcam resource you can check out for a real-time glimpse of what the viewpoint looks like: Webcams – Visit Azores. Use the Sete Cidades camera for current Miraduro da Boca do Inferno viewpoint coverage.

Accessing the Viewpoint

There are two primary trails you can take to access this viewpoint. The first trail takes about 20 minutes to hike. The parking lot at the trailhead for this option opens at 9 a.m. and tends to be less crowded. This is the trail we took to this viewpoint, and it provided incredible views from start to finish. We also passed very few fellow hikers on this trail – maybe no more than 5-6 total, round trip. The second and more popular access point is accessible via the parking lot closer to the viewpoint. This parking lot opens at 10 a.m. This is a great option for anyone looking to limit their walking and will lead you down a relatively flat path that takes about 10 minutes to walk/hike. If you decide to not rent a car during your stay, there are plenty of tour buses or private car tour options available for you to consider.

We recommend you combine this hike/viewpoint visit with other activities in Sete Cidades. You will find plenty of other miraduros around Sete Cidades worth checking out (we loved: Miradouro do Cerrado das Freiras), a lovely Catholic church in the traditional Azorean architectural style called Igreja de São Nicolau and other, much longer hiking trails for those looking for a more rugged hiking or backpacking experience (you can even hike around the rim of the Sete Cidades caldera).

Terra Nostra Garden

Have you ever seen or swam in an orange hot spring? At Terra Nostra Garden you’ll have the chance to do just that! For 8 Euro per person (rates as of Dec. 2023) you can explore this beautiful, centuries-old park and soak in the large orange thermal pool which is open to the public.  The thermal pool derives its orange color from high levels of iron and is a comfortable 40 degrees Celsius / 104 degrees Fahrenheit. It is lined in quarried stone and sits in front of the beautiful Caso do Parque. It is fan favorite and is located right by the main park entrance – it was the first thing we saw when we entered the park after paying our admission fee and where we spent most of our time.

The overall vibe of the hot spring is very laidback and zen. People of all ages enjoy this public pool, and we were surprised by how serene and peaceful everyone was. At the only other hot spring we visited prior to this trip – the Umpqua Forest Hot Springs in Oregon (U.S.) – visitors were drinking alcohol and basically partying. That was not the case here. It is a true wellness and relaxing destination. You will also find changing rooms on the premise but no locker facilities so pack only your essentials for this visit.

Pro tip: Bring a dark-colored swimsuit as the orange water may stain light-colored swim wear.

The geothermal pool was the highlight of our visit here, but we also enjoyed leisurely walking among some of the best gardens on the Azores. The variety of plant species here is impressive. Here you will find a small garden dedicated to the native plants of the Azores as well as plants and tree species from all parts of the world including a stunning collection of Camellias and a Chinese variety of Camellia which was once believed to be extinct. It’s a romantic garden and worth exploring if you can.

Required Eating on São Miguel

Portuguese food can be made all sorts of ways, “com gusto” or to your liking. And not all Portuguese fare is salty as you will find on the Azores. The food we indulged in while on São Miguel was truly memorable. We hope you enjoy the endless variety of places and plates to try and hopefully one will be at either of the locations we recommend below. Bom apetitie!

Hot Seafood Spot: O Américo de Barbosa (Mosteiros)

No trip to São Miguel would be complete without a healthy dose of seafood and the nondescript, O Américo de Barbosa, a restaurant located in the oceanside village of Mostieros is a must-try. It’s like entering someone’s home and sharing their culinary routine, traditions, and history over a heaping plate of fresh octopus. The menu centers on native ingredients and flavors such as oysters, fava beans, olives and soft cheeses brushed with honey, but the octopus is their claim to fame. They also have plenty of petiscos or small plate options perfect for sharing and snacking. You’ll also find that dairy features prominently on the menu across all the Azores islands including the creamy Rainha do Pico, a sweet butter.

Traditional Island Cuisine: Restaurante Vale Das Furnas (Parque De Campismo)

The Portugese islands have their own specialties. The green Azores islands are known for their creamy cheeses, fresh pineapple, and signature cozido das Furnas, a meat stew which is cooked in pots underground and overnight in the hot volcanic soil. To try this local specialty, we recommend: Restaurante Vale Das Furnas (Parque De Campismo). Make a reservation before dining here. This restaurant also has delicious vegetarian-friendly options.

Suggested 4-Day Itinerary

Below we’ve mapped out a very high-level, suggested itinerary for you to follow and fill in along the way. We set things out to be strategic and efficient. We divided the days by region and offer some of our favorite, must-see spots in each part of the island:

Day 1: Western São Miguel – Explore Sete Cidades, hike/visit Boca do Inferno, lunch in Mosteiros and beachcombing and sandy strolls along black sand beaches.

Day 2: Central São Miguel – Ambiental da Caldeira Velha, Gorreana Tea Factory (the oldest operational tea farm in Europe).

Day 3: Eastern São Miguel – Lagoa das Furnas, Parque Terra Nostra

Day 4: Ponta Delgada – whale watching tour (depending on the time of year you visit), Mercado da Graca food market, Carlos Machado Museum which houses a diverse collection of art and artifacts.

All told, a visit to the Azores is basically one big nature adventure after the next. As we shared in this post, you’ll find countless ways to disconnect and become one with nature especially on São Miguel, the largest island in the Azores archipelago. The otherworldly landscapes rooted in ancient volcanic history that make up these islands is reason enough to put this off-the-beaten-path destination on your bucket list ASAP!

~ Justin + Alyssa